What You Need to Know Before You Get Your Nails Done

Green manicurist Jenna Hipp explains why safe salon practices are just as important as seat belts.

A lot has been said since The New York Times investigated the dark world of nail salons and brought a few serious issues to light. From health hazards to underpaid workers, the findings not only set fire to social media and the public’s conscious, but caused Governor Andrew Cuomo to take “emergency measures” to protect this long-overlooked population comprised primarily of women. We asked a pro on the forefront of the issue, “green” manicurist Jenna Hipp, for answers. With two polish lines to her name and a client list that includes the likes of Jennifer Lawrence, Michelle Williams, Scarlett Johansson, and Miley Cyrus, the mani master—and her approach to earth- and people-friendly formulas—is anything but crunchy. Here, Hipp talks about the chemicals that could be lurking in your lacquer, why she’s “happy” if beauty companies copy her, and what to ask before you sit down at your next nail appointment.

Green manicurist Jenna Hipp explains why safe salon practices are just as important as seat belts.

A lot has been said since The New York Times investigated the dark world of nail salons and brought a few serious issues to light. From health hazards to underpaid workers, the findings not only set fire to social media and the public’s conscious, but caused Governor Andrew Cuomo to take “emergency measures” to protect this long-overlooked population comprised primarily of women. We asked a pro on the forefront of the issue, “green” manicurist Jenna Hipp, for answers. With two polish lines to her name and a client list that includes the likes of Jennifer Lawrence, Michelle Williams, Scarlett Johansson, and Miley Cyrus, the mani master—and her approach to earth- and people-friendly formulas—is anything but crunchy. Here, Hipp talks about the chemicals that could be lurking in your lacquer, why she’s “happy” if beauty companies copy her, and what to ask before you sit down at your next nail appointment.

Do you know other manicurists who have faced similar health problems? Absolutely. It’s not a secret in the nail tech community; it’s just rarely talked about for fear of losing future income. Ask any manicurist who’s been doing the job for an extended amount of time and I’m sure she’ll have a story or two to tell you. I even hear from my fellow Nailing Hollywood artists, who work exclusively on photo shoots, about negative side effects they’ve experienced as a result of chemical exposure. There’s a topcoat that everyone raves about because of the ultra-quick-dry qualities and high-shine finish, but after all the complaints of headaches, dizziness, and feeling lightheaded from several artists, I refuse to get near it. I’ve interviewed salon techs who feel like they have no other option and no way of ensuring the return customer without applying gel or acrylic nails. They knowingly risk their health and their [unborn] child’s development by enduring problems like asthma and thyroid dysfunction. It’s absolutely heartbreaking.

In terms of a manicurist’s health, what are some of the hazardous ingredients commonly found in many polishes, removers, and materials? Learning what ingredients you should stay away from is like learning a new language. And once you open Pandora’s box, you realize these damaging ingredients are basically the backbone of today’s beauty industry—even products specifically labeled for children and newborns. The main culprit, however, is formaldehyde. Even in small doses, it can cause serious side effects over time, such as thyroid dysfunction, breathing problems, and asthma. It is often found in nail polish and disinfectants, and even some soaps, cleansers, and lotions. Beware of any polish that doesn’t specifically say “formaldehyde-free” on the packaging. Also steer clear of lacquers, lotions, cuticle creams containing DMDM hydantoin, quaternium-15, diazolidinyl urea (or Germall II), imidazolidinyl urea (or Germall 115), and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT)—all known preservatives that leech formaldehyde. Though it’s a known carcinogenic, formaldehyde is still found in many nail polishes, as it acts as a hardener. Recently, the ingredient has been under so much scrutiny that companies have removed the ingredient and replaced it with formaldehyde resin, which companies are not legally required to reveal.

Toluene is also a popular ingredient in nail polish and is dangerous when inhaled because it targets and affects the brain. Though toluene helps suspend the color and creates a smooth texture, it also affects the central nervous system and can cause headaches, dizziness, and fatigue. Toluene is also a reproductive and developmental toxin, causing damage directly to the fetus.

DBP, or dibutyl phthalate, a plasticizer, allows polish to apply smoothly and dry hard and shiny. DBP is absorbed through the skin and/or nail bed, then absorbs into the bloodstream. If you’re expecting, it also enters and affects your growing baby. Canada and the European Union banned DBP years ago, but the U.S. has yet to follow suit.

Camphor, a plasticizer, is another ingredient included in the “5-Free” category because it has been reported to cause seizures, irritability, and bodily toxicity.

What’s important to remember is that we’re not necessarily pointing fingers at these ingredients individually—when any of these chemicals are combined, even in small doses, they can negatively affect the worker and even the client. I think we’re just on the cusp of realizing how much.

Lawmakers proposed banning DBP from cosmetics in 2005 but ultimately weren’t successful. In your opinion, is this ingredient hazardous enough to warrant a ban? Absolutely. Canada and the European Union found reason enough to ban it years ago. It’s the beauty industry leaders in the U.S. who fought against the ban to keep these chemicals alive in our products. These companies knowingly and willingly pump their products full of harmful chemicals, ultimately caring more about their bottom line than the safety of their consumers.

Why do you think the U.S. government is so lax on the beauty industry? What regulations would you like to see put into place? The beauty industry has heavy hitters with deep pockets. As stated in The New York Times article, California lawmakers proposed a bill banning DBP from all cosmetic products sold or manufactured in the state. Over half a million dollars were spent by industry lobbyists to fight the ban—including [a few very familiar] brands. The bill that would have required all cosmetic companies to disclose certain hazardous chemicals to the California Department of Public Health failed as a result of the industry’s objections. What this says to me is no one is really looking out for us, for our health or our safety. The responsibility of exposure is completely left up to the individual, and that’s a lot of pressure!

First off, I would create change at the source: initial education. [Beauty] schools aren’t teaching about carcinogenic ingredients, their side effects and possible alternatives. I’ve never once spoken to a licensed cosmetologist who was provided this type of information, or even the need to know it, throughout their entire training or time spent in a salon. As a result, my life’s mission is to implement a “natural nail license” that every state would deem acceptable for accreditation. No gels, no acrylics, no dust, no fumes. No carcinogens, no parabens, no added synthetic fragrances. No closed-in rooms drenched in acetone. Imagine: all-natural essential oils, massage techniques to aid healthy nail growth, organic treatments and soaks that will keep your client coming back for more because they want to, not because they have to. My career is living proof the clientele and consumer demand is abundant, and I won’t stop until every manicurist is offered the basic right of complete health and safety throughout their education and in the workplace.

Additionally, I would implement mandatory, clear, honest labels so consumers were clear on what they’re buying and using at a glance. Specialized air-ventilation systems would be a must for all salons. And finally, more research. The same techniques have been passed from generation to generation, but there haven’t been many studies on their overall effects.

There is new legislation in the works for New York about implementing a grading system for salons similar to restaurants. What do you think of this idea? It’s smart and responsible. Salons should be rewarded for their high standards and vice versa. Ultimately, it would benefit the customer to know what they’re walking into and supporting. Plus, a grading system would keep salons from getting lazy.